Guide written by Gordon Bennett – Military Lightweight Club
So you’ve decided that you want to buy a Lightweight (LWT) Land Rover. First of all congratulations on your choice of vehicle!
At this point, you will probably have considered what you will be using the vehicle for, be it a show vehicle, daily driver or green-laning tool and will probably have a budgetary figure in mind.
Depending on usage, you may be looking for a hybrid LWT, where the vehicle has been changed quite significantly from its in-service specification, a LWT with some modifications to make it more comfortable to use as a daily driver or a LWT that retains virtually all of its in-service specification, equipment and appearance.
This buyer’s guide will focus on the latter type of LWT, but many aspects of this guide will be suited to any LWT that you may be considering.
Table of contents
- Versions of LWT
- What should I check for first?
- Bulkheads (Upper and Lower)
- Axles, Differentials and Drive Shafts
- Wheels and Tyres
- Fuel Tanks
- Bodywork and Fittings
- Seats and Seat Belts
- Lights and Electrics
- Radios and Aerials
- Military History
- Are there any other models of LWT?
- What else might it come with?
- OK, so how much should I pay?
- Where do I get one from?
- What’s the final word and best bits of advice then?
Versions of LWT
LWTs were produced between 1968 and 1984 (approximately). This means that they usually have civilian registrations prefixes and suffixes between ‘G’ (1968) and ‘B’ (1984). The earlier versions are Series 2As and these were built until 1972 when the Series 3 was introduced.
Early Series 2As had the headlamps in the grill panel, whereas the later Series 2As had their headlamps moved to the wings, which continued throughout the production of the Series 3.
General Service (GS) LWTs had 12 Volt electrics and Fitted for Radio (FFR) LWTs had 24 Volt electrics
What should I check for first?
The first thing to check, will be the authenticity of the vehicle and will require you to see the Vehicles Log Book (V5C) and checking the chassis number or Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) against the numbers on the vehicle.
There are generally three places where you can find the VIN on the vehicle. The first place to look is inside the vehicle, on the military data plate which you will find on the outer edge of the seat box on the drivers side, or on the front bulkhead, just to the right and below the steering wheel (RHD), or just to the left and below the steering wheel (LHD).
The next place to look is under the bonnet, on a plate on the bulkhead at the rear of the engine. The third place, and probably the most difficult to see, is on the outer side of the front right hand dumb iron, where the number is stamped during the manufacturing process. This will often be covered in multiple layers of paint and/or underseal.
Sometimes, none of the plates remain on the vehicle, and the dumb iron has been repaired or replaced, or the chassis changed, which means that the number may no longer be there.
In this case, where there are no numbers present, it does not mean that the vehicle is not legitimate, but it does make it difficult to verify the provenance of the vehicle, purely from the chassis number on the log book.
There are many LWTs, with no numbers in existence, some are legitimate, others not. It can also be difficult to check a vehicle’s details when buying from eBay or over the phone. Wherever possible, please check the vehicle’s details before parting with any money and if anything seems suspicious, walk away from it. If you are still unsure, please add a post on the Military Lightweight Forum and ask for advice. The final decision will always be your own though!
One final check before proceeding, if all of the documents point to it being a 1969 Series 2A, which means that it is road tax exempt, does it look right, or does it seem newer? There are many LWTs out there, with data plates from an earlier vehicle, or where there are no data plates a log book (V5C) from an earlier vehicle, taking advantage of the tax exempt status. Beware, as if checked by the authorities and proven to be questionable, it could be confiscated and even destroyed.
Good, the docs & numbers are all fine and the LWT seems legitimate….what’s next?
…you really need to be well prepared, especially if you have limited knowledge of vehicles and haven’t got a friendly expert with you. Remove your ‘rose tinted’ glasses before you start to inspect the vehicle, as some of the nicest looking LWTs out there can be pretty awful under closer scrutiny. Always take a checklist with you and be rigid in sticking to it. If the vehicle is a good one, the owner will be happy to go through the list with you. See the LWT Buyers Checklist.
OK, where should I start checking?…
Let’s check things in some form of priority and assume that you want a vehicle that is roadworthy with a decent MOT, with everything working i.e. not a long term project.
- The LWT has a ladder type chassis, with cross-members and outriggers to support the body, fuel tanks, axles and engine and gearbox, so it is important that this is in good condition. It is made of steel, so is prone to rusting, particularly from the inside as well as the outside.
- It is likely, that it will be covered in multiple coats of paint and protective treatment and oil from the engine and drive train components (gearbox, axles, diffs). This is good, but can also hide rust, holes and poorly done repairs.
- Take a screwdriver with you and give the chassis a damned good prodding, in particular the areas where there is plenty of underseal. The owner will be happy for you to do this if everything is in order, but check with him/her first. Be careful though not to cause any damage by over exuberance as the seller will not be too pleased if you don’t buy it in the end.
- Check everywhere you possibly can, remove the seats to check the top of the rails and check the condition of the fuel tanks and attachment points at the same time. There are areas that are more prone to corrosion than others, such as the rear cross-member, front dumb irons, all of the outriggers, along the top of the chassis rails under the rear tub. Time spent checking the chassis is time very well spent and could save on very expensive chassis repairs or at worst a full chassis swap.
- Repairs are acceptable, but make sure that any patches have continuous welds around their outer edge, not just spot welds.
- It is possible to fit new cross-members and outriggers and again, make sure that these are welded on correctly.
- You may be lucky, and find that it has had a replacement chassis, but the seller will definitely have told you this before you get under there. It’s a really good selling point.
Bulkheads (Upper and Lower)
- The bulkheads are made from steel and unlike other Series Land Rovers, comprise of two parts, an upper and a lower. The upper bulkhead houses the opening air vents and is bolted to the lower bulkhead. The upper bulkheads are prone to corrosion and are very expensive to replace. The upper bulkheads on some LWTs have been badly repaired, or have had a complete patch welded over the vents making for an easier repair, but rendering the vents as useless.
- The lower bulkhead is also made from steel and can corrode anywhere, but usually the worst areas are the footwells and the triangular shaped panels that support the door hinges. Footwells and the triangular shaped panels are available to facilitate repairs. Removal of the lower bulkhead is not an easy task, but can be done by a competent vehicle enthusiast.
- Standard engines fitted to the LWTs in-service were mainly the 2.25 petrol, although some were fitted with the 2.25 diesel in limited numbers. Many LWTs have now been fitted with other engines and common transplants are 3.5 V8 Rover engines, 2.5 normally aspirated diesel engines from later Land Rovers, 2.0 Perkins Prima engines and 200TDi Land Rover engines.
- With all engines, the first thing to do is check the fluid levels as this will give you an indication as to whether or not the current owner has performed any routine maintenance. Cleanliness and newness of the oil filter, if the external canister type, will also point to someone who may have looked after the engine. Remove the oil filler cap from the rocker cover and look for any sludgy white substance which may indicate a leaking head gasket between cylinders.
- On starting the engine, watch for smoke from the exhaust as a sign of wear, but this is normal for a diesel as long as there aren’t great clouds of soot and brimstone. Look for obvious leaks when running, listen for knocks especially when revving, which should be smooth and without misfires.
- Remove the radiator cap to check the water level, and once the engine has warmed up, the water should surge to indicate that the thermostat is working. Turn the heater on and check for warm air and look for leaks. If it is a 2 speed heater, check both speeds. On the first speed, it will probably feel like an asthmatic mouse is coughing on your hand, on full speed, it should sound louder and there should be a greater flow of air from the vents.
- If an electronic ignition is fitted, this will be a bonus. Many LWTs have had the oil bath air filter removed and a pancake filter fitted directly to the top of the carburettor instead. Some LWTs have snorkels fitted. Look at the parts fitted to the engine. Do the spark plugs look new, are the plug leads new and is a new distributor cap fitted. All items like this will give a good indication that maintenance of some sort has been carried out. Cleanliness and new parts do not however prove that an engine is in good condition and many LWTs will have dirty and oily engines that will still be running well and will last for many miles.
- Standard engines are reasonably cheap and not difficult to replace and most components are reasonably priced. FFR vehicles have a 24 Volt ignition system, and some of their 24 Volt components are expensive and can be difficult to obtain. Many 24 Volt vehicles have been, or can be, converted to 12 Volt ignition.
- Radiator overflow bottles are often missing, but can be replaced.
- LWTs are fitted with a four speed gearbox. On the road, LWTs are generally driven in two-wheel drive and have selectable four wheel drive via a spring loaded lever, which is the short, most forward lever, which usually has a yellow knob. This is depressed to engage four-wheel drive. Four wheel drive is available in both high and low ratios.
- With four wheel drive engaged, the steering wheel will try to jump out of your hands when driving slowly on full lock.
- The second longest lever, with the red knob, is for selecting low and high ranges. This lever is used to disengage four wheel drive, when in high ratio, by moving it fully to the rear and then fully forward. This lever has a mid position which is neutral and can be used as a security device. When low ratio is selected, four-wheel drive is automatically engaged.
- The longest lever is the normal gear lever and is used for selecting the four forward and one reverse gear.
- If there is a fourth rearmost lever, then the vehicle has an overdrive fitted and this is a real bonus. This basically is a splitter gearbox and gives you eight forward and two reverse gears. Depress the clutch when engaging or disengaging the overdrive.
- Military gearboxes can be topped up from inside the vehicle by removing a large rubber-grommet from the gearbox tunnel and removing the gearbox filler cap. Later LWTs may have the rubber grommet missing even though the gearbox can be filled from the top. Civilian gearboxes do not have this facility.
- Ensure that all gears are selectable, when driving, in high and low ratio and that four wheel drive is selectable in high ratio and that all gears can be selected. Also check that it does not jump out of first or second gear when going downhill, with your feet off the accelerator and clutch
Axles, Differentials and Drive Shafts
- LWT axles and differentials are robust and require simple maintenance. Check for obvious leaks and if the swivel housings, the things that look like big chrome balls near the brake back-plates, are not excessively pitted if they are visible.
- Check drive shafts for excessive free play, and that the bolts are tight.
- Some vehicles have Free Wheeling Hubs, check that these engage and disengage.
- Some vehicles have Range Rover differentials fitted which are of a higher ratio and help when driving at higher speeds. This is not obvious though just by looking.
- On the test drive, listen for excessive clunking which may indicate worn drive shaft splines or universal joints. Also listen out for excessive noise from the axles and diffs. If xtra grip tyres are still fitted, you may not hear anything over the noise that they make.
- Have an accomplice, or get the seller to rock the steering wheel from side-to-side whilst you look for any wear in the track rod ends and steering arm joints. Again spare parts are reasonably priced and plentiful should things need replacing.
- Rock the steering wheel back and forth to feel how much ‘free play’ there is in the wheel. Free play feels like nothing is happening and takes no effort. It’s the ‘sloppy’ bit between feeling any resistance when you are turning the wheel. If there is over an inch of free play, things are starting to become excessively worn and maintenance or repairs are necessary. Again parts are not prohibitively expensive or difficult to get.
- When driving, don’t be too surprised if the vehicle bounces around over bumps and potholes. It may also tend to wander and you may find yourself continuously turning the steering wheel, either way, to remain in a straight line. If a steering damper is fitted, this manic movement with the wheel will be unnecessary.
- These are not the best feature on a LWT, although if properly maintained and adjusted are adequate for normal driving conditions.
- The brakes are drums all-round. Later LWTs have larger diameter front brakes (11 inch rather than 10 inch) and twin wheel cylinders giving improved braking.
- The handbrake is also a drum brake and is fitted in the drive-train. Never apply the hand brake when the vehicle is moving.
- Disc brake conversions are available for the front brakes and hand brake, but are very expensive.
- Ensure that you test the brakes on the test drive. They shouldn’t pull to either side and when applied firmly should allow the nose to dive. It is possible to lock the front brakes up when they are set up well.
- Ensure that the handbrake works by applying on a hill of suitable gradient. If the handbrake is poor, this may be because oil can leak from the transfer box rear seal onto the handbrake. Have a look underneath to check.
Wheels and Tyres
- All LWTs have steel wheels as original. Earlier vehicles are fitted with 6.50 x 16 radials. Later vehicles are fitted with 7.50 x 16 radials. Original tyres, if still fitted, might be Goodyear xtra Grips and will explain the droning noise when you’re on your test drive.
- Many LWTs will have other types of tyres fitted, including metric sizes. In general, 205 x 16s are the same rolling diameter as 6.50 x 16s and 235/85 x 16s are the same rolling diameter as 7.50 x 16s.
- Changing tyre sizes from standard can affect your gearing and the accuracy of your speedometer.
- Check the condition of all tyres including the spare. Tyres can be expensive, especially if you want standard military issue and sizes.
- All LWTs were fitted with two under seat fuel tanks when in-service. Check the condition of both tanks, including their mountings and look for leaks.
- The tanks are accessed from under the front seats and filled by topping up the tanks directly. The tanks should have an extension tube, with filter that is pulled upwards and locked with a bayonet fitting, by twisting, like a light bulb. Some LWTs have been fitted with tanks from civilian vehicles and have external fillers on the side of the vehicles rear tub.
- The supply from the tanks is selectable by a lever on the bulkhead for early vehicles, or via a lever on the seat box behind the driver’s feet on later vehicles. If the vehicle doesn’t start, it’s a good idea to check this lever hasn’t been kicked over to the empty tank or into the mid position. This is also a good security device.
- The fuel guage should show the contents for both tanks as long as everything is working fine. Each tank is monitored separately by the one guage. This should be something to test on your checklist
- Some LWTs will have been converted to run on LPG as well as petrol. Make sure that everything looks fine and that the seller has a certificate to say that it has been fitted correctly. Your Insurance Company may ask to see this.
Bodywork and Fittings
- Buying new replacement panels for your LWT is virtually impossible. Some replacement panels are re-manufactured, such as the triangular door hinge panels and footwells. Upper bulkheads are also being re-manufactured, but are expensive in the region of £350 to £400.
- If you need a replacement panel, it will generally come from another vehicle which is being broken for spares. Land Rover shows and auto-jumbles are a good source for replacement body panels as is eBay.
- Front wings for Series 2As are very expensive to replace. As the vehicles are getting older and less common, the prices are getting higher and higher and even parts in poor condition can be costly.
- LWT front bumpers are narrower than on normal Series vehicles and most have over-riders above the bumper. Rear bumperettes should be fitted.
- Vehicles before 1982 (ish) had front and rear lifting eyes fitted.
- The rear tailgate on a LWT should be a two piece split tailgate. On LWTs before 1982 (ish), they will have brackets and straps to enable fitment of the pioneer shovel and pick-head and shaft. Earlier tailgates also had a number plate flap and light and these are very rare.
- Very few LWTs, when in-service were fitted with hard-tops, although many have been fitted afterwards. Truck cab tops can also be fitted. Changing from one type of top to another is relatively easy.
- If the LWT has a canvass (tilt), there are several versions. GS vehicles had a different canvass to an FFR. An FFR had flaps to cover aerial wire exit points and stockings to accommodate the sliding aerial arms. Both types have a clear rear window. RAF Gilder School vehicles had clear windows panels in the roof. Replacement canvasses are available and can be ordered with side windows to improve vision.
- Fly screens should be fitted inside the vehicle at the rear of the upper bulkhead vents to stop insects coming in when the vents are opened.
- LWTs have different grilles to Series vehicles. Series 3 grilles are still common enough, but the earlier series 2A grilles are harder to find.
- Door tops corrode quickly and badly, but new ones can be bought either glazed or unglazed. Early military Defender door tops fit, and have the benefit of both panes of glass being able to slide.
- Some vehicles have working door locks and window locks. Replacement lock barrels are cheap and fairly easy to replace.
- When in-service, all LWTs had a fire extinguisher on the bulkhead.
- Gun clips were fitted, on the bulkhead, behind the front seats.
Seats and Seat Belts
- General Service vehicles usually have three individual seats in the front. They should have belts for all three seats. FFR LWTs will only have two front seats, separated by the battery cover. They should still have seat belts though.
- Later LWTs have a seat-belt frame behind the front seats, these are rare and difficult to replace if missing.
- In the rear, there may be bench seats fixed to the wheel arches, or individual radio operators seats which hook onto the bodywork, or slide into the radio table. There may or may not be seatbelts in the rear.
Lights and Electrics
- It might sound daft, but check that everything works and test each item against your checklist. Try combinations as well, sometimes all the lights will work OK individually, but when breaking or indicating at the same time as having the lights on, strange things can happen, usually caused by a bad earth.
- LWTs were fitted with standard 7 inch sealed beam headlight units. Many have now been converted to halogen units as the originals can be a little dim. Later LWTs had standard outer rims (bezels) like those fitted to an old fashioned Mini. LWTs previous to 1982 (ish) had special headlight rims, with three grub screws, for attaching Infra Red (IR) reflectors used with Night Vision Goggles (NVG) when used in-service allowing the driver to see in the dark (vision was impaired greatly when in actual use).
- Check that the headlight bowls are in good condition by looking at them either under the wings, or on earlier versions, under the bonnet. Check that the light units themselves are not rusty inside as this should be an instant MOT fail. Check that they work on dip and main beam. Dip beam is selected via the six-way switch on the panel by turning the switch fully anti-clockwise. Check that the six-way switch turns fully clockwise and fully anti-clockwise and is not difficult to turn or seized. Main beam is selected via the switch on the steering column. Ensure that the headlamp flasher also works. The headlight Infra Red switch (looks like a missile control switch with a protective cover) on the wiper control panel will generally be disconnected, but can cause hours of endless fun if you are having headlamp problems and it is still connected.
- Indicators, side lights, tail and brake lights and fog lights fitted to later LWTs all have lenses that can be unscrewed. I always screw them all off to look at the condition of the lights under the lenses. Check that all of the lenses are present and correct and that all lights work as they should. If the fog lights are fitted, there should be a rectangular warning light on the dash panel between the two large dials, check that this works. The lenses differ between early and late models. Later models have ‘mushroom’ type lenses. Earlier models have glass ‘ruby’ lenses.
- Check that the number plate light is also working OK. Side and tail lights are turned on using the six way switch and turning it anti-clockwise xx clicks.
- Indicators are selected using the switch on the steering column. Hazard warning lights, if fitted, are selected by depressing the large round switch, on the dash. Press once for on and again to stop.
- Check that the horn works by pressing the end of the indicator stalk on the steering column.
- The six-way switch may also be still wired for convoy lights, and if this is selected, by turning the six way switch clockwise xx clicks, all other lights will be extinguished.
- Panel lights can be selected by a switch on the dash panel.
- Check that the washers and wipers work. Earlier LWTs had the water bottle inside the vehicle and the motor on these can be temperamental and difficult to find if a replacement is needed.
- Check that the heater works on all speeds. Some are single speed, others dual speed. The fuse for the heater is well hidden and can be found under the bonnet, under the bulkhead scuttle by the left hand wiper.
- Wiper motor covers are now getting scarce, especially for earlier LWTs. Steering column shrouds are also expensive.
- If a NATO towing hitch and electrics are fitted, the electrics are difficult to test unless the seller has the relevant equipment to test it or trailer with NATO plug. There is a second warning lamp on the dash panel to show that the trailer indicators are working when a trailer is connected and coupled up, again difficult to test without a trailer.
- Convoy light. This is fitted beneath the LWT at the back of the rear cross-member and will illuminate the rear differential which would have been painted white when in-service. If still fitted, this can be tested by turning the six-way switch clockwise xx clicks. The convoy light is the same unit as the number plate light on a Sankey trailer.
- Some LWTs have been fitted with an electric fan and the normal metal bladed fan removed. Check that the fan is working and that the temperature rheostat (dial) works
- Some LWTs may have been fitted with a battery cut-off switch which is another security device.
- On 12 Volt vehicles with a standard engine, the battery should be under the bonnet. On 24 Volt vehicles, the batteries (2 off) should be beneath a cover between the front seats. The battery should spin the engine easily if in good condition. Try it with the lights and heater on as a basic check.
- 24 volt LWTs may have a pair of ammeters on a panel to the left of the dash, or an ammeter on a panel between the front seats.
- Some LWTs are fitted with an arctic heater, check that this works if advertised as a selling point.
Radios and Aerials
- It is possible, that you may find a LWT that still retains some of its radio fixtures and fittings. Radios were usually fitted to FFR LWTs, but some Army units fitted radios to GS vehicles.
- In the rear tub, there may be a huge radio table and cage. Don’t throw this away if you don’t want it, they are getting quite rare. Usually, the sliding battery trays are missing as are the red and black tops from the electrical connectors. A pair of sliding aerial arms may still be fitted, as may be a whole array of radios, equipment and cabling on the radio table and dexion framework.
- Wing boxes may be fitted on the front wings. Many LWTs have them just for show and they are not connected. Wiring may still be in place on some LWTs.
- It is possible, that the seller may have the full military history details for the LWT. If not, these can be found by contacting the relevant bodies. Having the military data plates present is a good starting point, although history can sometimes be found from just the chassis number.
Are there any other models of LWT?
- There were other specialised models of LWT manufactured, or modified from standard vehicles. These, depending upon rarity, will always fetch a premium, sometimes very high, even if the LWT is in very poor condition.
What else might it come with?
- If the seller is an enthusiast, and has taken the vehicles to shows, it may come with all manner of display items such as; camouflage nets, convoy flags, 58 pattern webbing, gas mask, tin helmet, radios, bits of uniform, even guns. If you are looking at such a vehicle, and you are unsure as to the value of these items, post a question on the Military Lightweight Forum asking for help.
- If you do buy any weapons, ensure that they are de-activated and have the necessary paperwork with them. Always make sure that you have the paperwork with you when travelling to shows with your weapons. Keep the weapons out of sight, wherever possible until you get to the shows, and when there, make sure that you keep a watchful eye on who is around them.
OK, so how much should I pay?
Well, as ever, this will depend upon condition, originality, rarity and whether it’s a private or trade sale. The following six categories are meant as a guide:
1. Project Vehicles – These can be complete (but everything needs replacing) to vehicles with some or lots of part missing . The upshot is that you may be lucky and get something that isn’t that far from an MOT and could be a rolling restoration. I’d class these as between £300 – £2,000 with early 2As being at the higher end.
2. Rolling Restorations – These may already come with 12 months MOT. They may be useable as a daily driver but will be tired and in need of TLC and constant work (welding, oil leaks, dodgy electrics etc. etc.). Again there will be an upper and lower scale to these. I’d class these as between £1,800 and £3,500
3. Good Condition – These again will be daily drivers, or a show only vehicle, but classed as reliable with 90% of electrics and mechanicals working perfectly. Good tyres, solid chassis (perhaps even an older galvanised chassis) perhaps having been subject to a good rebuild 3 to 5 years ago. Paintwork good, but might be getting scruffy round the edges. I’d class these as between £3,000 and £6,000
4. Excellent Condition – These may just have undergone a complete restoration/rebuild, but dependent upon the skill of those doing the work and impression of what constitutes a complete restoration/rebuild will alter the price range accordingly. Vehicles could also be 90% complete, but the owner just can’t get it over the line. I’d class these as between £5,000 and £8,500
5. Exceptional Condition – These are the top condition vehicles, including many better than when new. Beware as many hardly turn a wheel year to year and could be waiting for things to fail when used a little more often. Should be easy repairs though if it happens. I’d class these simply as over £8,000
6. Unusual Vehicles – VPK, Marshall’s & CNG Recoilless Rifle Gunships, TOW Missile LWTs, Para Recce, Falklands ‘Bog-Frogs’ (Gloster Saro). Unrestored vehicles without the specialist equipment will demand lower prices, but a vehicle in ‘Exceptional Condition’ with full deactivated weapons installation will be worth whatever the new owner is willing to pay.
Where do I get one from?
- At the moment, the biggest supplier of LWTs is probably eBay. There are bargains to be had, but you can also pay good money for a bad one. People seem to have differing opinions of what good condition means so it is always advisable to go and have a look before parting with your hard earned.
- Many of the classified magazines have them in their for sale pages
- Specialist dealers sell them, and although there may be some form of buyer protection, you will always pay a premium for them
- Watch the Land Rover Club sites and Forums on the Internet
What’s the final word and best bits of advice then?
- If you’re buying from eBay, be careful and go and see the vehicle before bidding. If you can’t go and see it, try and get a mate or someone you trust, who lives nearby, to look at it for you.
- Take your checklist with you and tick everything off as you go through it.
- Take your time and don’t be over eager to buy, the seller will notice and it will be harder to haggle.
- Understand what replacement parts cost as this will help when haggling (see LWT Parts Price list)
- If you’re of a younger age, check to make sure you can get insurance before you buy.
- Make sure you budget for some form of security device and if possible, have somewhere safe, in mind, to park it. If considering a garage, check that it will fit under the door?
- Always check the paperwork, very carefully, before parting with your hard earned money.
- Join a Club and/or a Lightweight Forum so that you can get or give Technical Advice and discuss your pride and joy with like minded people.
- Take plenty of pictures if you do the deal, especially if you can’t take it home on the same day. It wouldn’t be the first time that an unscrupulous seller removes/swaps those hard to get parts before you collect! You may regret it if you don’t and they will also be a good record to keep on file.
- Tell everyone that you’ve got one.
- Good luck and enjoy!
Please Note: This article is written as a guide only, is based upon the author’s opinion and is intended as advice and not an instruction.